Відео

@@b0mazor 😂 I guess the 10,000 hours rule would hold truer. Study 10,000 hours of UA-cam videos and we talk again!! ;-)

@@ssaw3008 I never climb with 120cm slings. (Very seldom) I don’t think you can make such a convenient and comfortable chest rig with them. Sorry to let you down on this!

@@skillbeh cool! Do you ever rely on a single bolt momentarily? Or do you tend to always be on 2 bolts like I try to do in the video? Or do you « aid-LRS » your way up self belaying with a bottom belay anchor?

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I clip a figure 8 in a bight to a steel locker and put that on the first bolt. I then clip up to the next bolt with a quick draw, jug up with an ascender and a gri gri, go in-direct, then repeat, until I get to the anchors. I will always be on one bolt, plus the original locking biner with the figure 8, plus I will be on the bolt i'm in direct to, or, until I go back on the rope, as I progress to the next bolt/quickdraw. If, for example, the third bolt failed, I would take a factor 2 fall on to the second bolt, but with the rope, not a sling. It would be very bad, but I wouldn't hit the ground. If that same bolt failed while I was pulling slack to clip to the next bolt, I would take a similar fall, but it would be longer. It's hard to explain. I should probably just make a video.

@@skillbeh if you end up making a video, please contact me through my website BlissClimbing.com. I can post the link to your video here for others to watch. You cannot because you don’t own this video here and YT will not allow your comment. Makes sense? I think I understand what you describe. Do you think my method has an advantage? As both of us must reach between 2 bolts? Right?

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Your method is perhaps slightly safer and more redundant, but I believe my margin for safety is acceptable enough for most people. Mine allows me to set up quite quickly. I have encountered many bolts that I did not feel comfortable with (old/rusted/tipped out, etc) in which case I will "down clean" and exit the route rather than risk a bolt failure and a factor 2 fall. In my area we are starting to replace most old bolts with glue ins, which if installed properly, have a very low likelihood of failure, as you know quite well i'm sure. I am a rope access professional so I typically have a low tolerance for unnecessary risk, but I think the method I use is a good compromise between convenience/ease of use/ and safety. If I make a video I will reach out to you via your website. Thank you for all of your content. Excellent stuff.

@@skillbeh Sounds great! Thanks for sharing your experience!

@@skillbeh it has more pros than cons for rope solo systems.

@@PinkFromTheFuture cool! See you next time!!

@@QuentinLeCalvez the color was weird on the original for some reason. Black and white showed much better.

@@gfgytyt5747 yes. 6 to 10 (?) slip knots and an overhand on a bight as a « final » backup. Makes sense?

Thanks!

Thanks so much! Yes: if you use a very thin rope, and you feed the Silent Partner in a certain way, there is a risk that the whole clove hitch falls in a single slot of the Silent Parter "sheave". If you fall with the clove in that position, it can be almost impossible to un-cinch. I used a nut tool to pry out the rope from that mess once and resume climbing! It was a 9.4mm rope and I pushed it beyond normal use. Never happened to me with a 9.5 or 9.6mm rope... You can look in details how I release the SP here: ua-cam.com/video/COs1YFpl7Ws/v-deo.html

I used and loved my soloist so much! It still runs strong! 🙂

@@neitzsche5150 two Petzl Tangas would be annoying as you would have to remove one each time and risk dropping it. The Kong fast rubber might be good to keep a carabiner permanently on the belay loop but it is not my style. And would not keep the Spoc from sliding over the gate. Only the Avant "Flex-Link" - Anti-Crossload Protector would work and be of this kind!! Makes sense?

@@robstone8782 I just don’t like the belay master because the plastic gets in the way to clip to a gear loop. Also plastic can be lost.

@@colecooper9792 Thanks Cole! Were you part of the team I let pass me?

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yep that was us! I was the follower on the first couple pitches

@@colecooper9792 well done I thought you were fast! I had a fantastic climb :-) Thanks for the comment!!

@@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

@@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

@@paulmorrey4298 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

@@momchilatanasoff7456 you are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!

@@jackberdine à silent partner

Thanks!

Its called DMM Wallis Avant Climbing also have their own version

@@climberevan wow the heat shrink tube is a great idea!! In my experience the electrical tape gets damaged from friction but it stays decent for a while.

I am not the specialist in Soft shackles. I own a few and never use them in rock climbing. I know no one using them in rock climbing. I hear (and believe) they are safe when kept under tension. Not the case with the Spoc. I don't believe they are safe for that use...

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing v interesting, I did wonder.

Let me know if it was reasonable for you in the end or if not! Thanks for the constructive comment!

Safe-Tec Duck-R Back Up Device: I have never touched one. I have researched the subject for Top Rope Solo (TRS) and decided against buying one. People who test it for TRS found there is too much friction going on and it seem like the device is annoying. Also it is 290g so not the most heavy but substantial. Also a bit expensive but would be ok if it did the job! Also I know no one using the Duck-R for TRS. Do you know more about it?

For sure I made a test outside the scope of the device. I wish it would have worked with 9.5!! Thanks for the comment.

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I wish it would too, dynamic ropes over 10mm aren't that popular. Still it's certified with an absorber too, so maybe these devices are made with static ropes in mind - I don't know really, I doubt I've seen this mentioned in any documentation. Your test shows what would happen in a non-ideal scenario, but I think this happens quite a lot, so it's extremely useful!

@@BluesyBor Thanks!

I believe this device is not made for that purpose. You should ask some specialists on the subject. In my opinion you need one rope + device for positioning (lock) and another rope + device in case the first system fails. Good luck with your research!

ASAP Lock

Thanks so much for the comment!! I must note that some people discourage the use of rings because their smooth radius make them slip more. They promote “I-beem” shaped carabiners that create more friction in the girth hitch. I think I have heard this from Karsten Delap. Best Regards!!

I will do that for my online TRS course buyers. Thanks for the interest!

I agree. Too sad a lot of people still trust this device for TRS use!

Exactly! That is a concern of mine. Also drying of the container water could be a problem as it is an enclosed mechanism.

Depends for what use! For general use, an oval would be ideal. If you need to minimize the risks of “bad loading” at all costs (if the mini is not always tended by someone near), I have a complete list available to my online TRS and LRS students.

Check the manual, this one is forbiden by Petzl for fall arrest. Nevertheless I tried it for top rope solo climbing (self-belay) in real life (not only testing) and it locked about 75-80% of the time. The other 20-25%, the backup caught. Clearly unreliable to me. And Petzl seem to concur.

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing crazy my dosent do taht and who uses only one divice to secure them tahts prety stupid

Thanks!